Hiking Doi Suthep

Doi Suthep, or Mount Suthep, is a mountain in Chiang Mai that is about 5,500 feet tall. At the top is the temple Wat Phra That, which is a Theravada Buddhist temple and one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in Thailand. Instead of driving to the top of the mountain and seeing the temple, we decided to hike to the top with a stop at Wat Palad, also called Wat Pha Lat, a secret monks' temple, on the way up. I had read about this hidden trail and temple on various blogs while researching this trip, and everyone said it was a magical place that many people never get to see. The temple has a long and rich history full of folklore, so the exact story of Wat Pha Lat is hard to find. However, this blog post tells a pretty neat story that I have found backed up on other sites if that interests you.

To find the entrance to the trail that leads to Wat Pha Lat, you have to take Suthep Road near Chiang Mai University. Next, you take a right toward the entrance to the Chiang Mai Zoo and continue up the road a bit until you see a trail sign.

The sign marking the beginning of the trail to Wat Pha Lat. It shows a map of the mountain with the trail all the way to Wat Phra That.

Now you can begin your hike! This part of the hike is fairly easy for beginner hikers. We passed through lush vegetation and winding trails marked with orange slivers of fabric to mark the way. These are pieces of the traditional clothing worn by the monks, and if you're lucky you might see a monk or two hiking the trail with you. The whole forest seemed calm and full of history, and it was exciting just walking through the forest. This portion of the hike took about 45 minutes to an hour.

Then, all of a sudden the trail opened up to the temple. There were intricately carved statues, grand staircases, a cave to the side, and the buildings themselves. Unfortunately, the temple was under construction at the time, so a lot of the mystery and reverent vibes were removed from our experience. Yet, this temple was one of the most amazing places I've ever visited. I felt like I was transported back in time, and I didn't even really want to talk for fear of disturbing anything. The name Wat Pha Lat translates to "the monastery at the sloping rock," which is very appropriate. It perches atop the hill looking out over the city on a beautiful rocky slope. We spent about 30 minutes enjoying the surroundings here.

Next, we headed up a side path which led to the highway. We then had to walk down the road a bit to find the entrance to the second half of the hike, which would lead to Wat Phra That. Luckily, we found a fellow hiker who knew where the entrance was, or we never would have found it. Once you come out of the woods of the first trail, take a left on the highway. Then, take the first path on the right on the other side of the road. There is a street sign right beside it to sort of mark it.

WARNING: THIS IS WHERE THE HIKE GETS HARD. While us three mediocre hikers were huffing and puffing our way up the mountain, professionals were breezing by us wishing us luck and telling us we could do it. This part of the hike took about an hour and a half and is much steeper and physically challenging than the first. This portion of the hike is just as pretty as the first, so if you like a more difficult hike, I would definitely recommend it.

We finally made it to the top and came out of the woods onto another highway. At this point we could hear drums beating in the distance and see tall red flags marking the final destination. We took a few minutes to shop at the merchant stalls outside the Wat Phra That.

However, we never made it to the temple itself...one of my friends was sick with food poisoning and we needed to get back down the mountain ASAP. (Side note: it is DEFINITELY on my bucket list to go back and see the temple itself).

Here are some tips and tricks for this half-day hike that I found very helpful:

• Bug spray is a necessity. If you don't wear bugspray you will be eaten alive. I used Off! Deep Woods insect repellant and came out without a single bite on me.

• Sunscreen was not necessary because the entire trail is shrouded in trees, but if you decide to be extra cautious with your skin, like I was, the trick is to put on your sunscreen first! Apply sunscreen, let it set into your skin, and then apply a generous layer of insect repellant.

• Closed-toed shoes were a must! I wore tennis shoes instead of hiking boots, which was nice because they were more lightweight and easier to navigate the slopes and twisting tree roots.

• Bring layers. Thailand is notoriously hot and humid, so I chose to wear running pants and a lightweight shirt. I wore a shirt that covered my shoulders, but if you decide to wear a tank top, bring something to wear over your shoulders at the temples (this could be a jacket or even a scarf to throw over your shoulders). Don't forget that you are hiking to multiple holy places, and it is offensive to show too much skin.

• Bring lots of water and maybe a snack. There is nowhere to get water until you are at the very top, and if you choose to do the harder second hike, you will want it.